Back in Ottapaam, as the only foreigner in the facility (and it seems also in the whole town), i try to get my bearings. The town has an equal number of Hindus amd Muslims. The hospital is located on the east side of town where the main road turns into a long line of garages and autoparts shops. Right off the road is a luxurious neighborhood, predominantly muslim, of large residential houses and a simpler village bordering downhill.Fiurther on, more jungle and distant hills.
Signs in English are few as tourism is not a major source of income here. Many men wear Dhoti's, a large cloth tied around the waist and sometimes shortened by tying it up between the legs in a way I have yet to learn - but the colored stripe is always worn on the right.
Power outs are common in India and here is no different. One or two a day don't seem to bother anyone so, when a movie is interrupted mid-way, I don't bother either. If it's not too late to (or too early) wake the neighbors, the hospital generator is turned on.
The beds have springless metal bases, hot water is available via solar heater and by the evening runs out. Chai is served at 06:30, again with breakfast and once more at tea time. There is no food or ht drinks after dinner. Comfort is not an issue here as even my iron cast desk chair suggests but then again, the doctor did say it was not a Spa.
My two masseuses, Sunil and Gobin serve also as nurses, preparing and administering medicines, giving post-treatment instructions and even cater to my request for a daily newspaper
In Dr. Nair's absence, Dr. Indira makes the rounds taking BP, pulse and inquiring as to the patient's general feeling, sleep and 'motions'.
Of the duo that administers the patients, Gobin is more resevred while Sunil is open and inquisitive.I show him some pics of my trip so far and he asks if I have music on the ipod aswell. I look up an Indian music playlist and ask him: "Do you know Uma Mohan?" is eyes widened as he looked at the screen and asked: "Do you have her Shiva songs?". "Yes" I said and proceeded to pay one. It seems he is a devotee of Shiva and was unsuccessful finding any by her. I think it's called a lucky strike. I promised to send him all I had of Shiva as soon as I return home. At 23 he has already gained extensive experience in Ayurveda having started at an early age and working at different p[laces in India before landing a job at the 'Ayush". He is also a Kung Fu enthusiast. A cartwheel and hi-kick convinced him that this too we had in common.
After 8 days here, the last six having ingested increasing amounts of warm Ghee in the morning I am still comfortable. I am asked not to leave the hospital during the Ghee stage. During this time my diet is also restricted to 'Kanye', a watery red rice dish served with one veg side dish.
A day here starts at 6am with medications, then tea, breakfast at 8:30 (usually rice cakes or a spongy pancake-like bread with sauce) then doctor's rounds at ten. Today the amount of Ghee was raised to 200ml at one go.So far so good as I've been spared the side effects that affect some, like vomiting, headaches, upset stomach or restlessness.
After a few days of keeping to myself I manage to talk to the only person who acknowledges me with a smile, a mister Ramen who is of Brahmin origin.His curiosity seems insatiable as he inquires about Israel foreign relations, education and even on how much cup of coffee costs (about 20 times more than a cup of local chai). Ramen is 72, thin and very amicable. He also shows me hoe to wear a Dhoti and even demonstrates how Brahmins wear theirs.
The next day his brother in law visits and I am asked to join them. He is also a Brahmin, a retired physics teacher and a schlar of the vedas. We talk for a long time (him being as inquisitive as his relative) and we find common ground on meditation and its rewards. He is even familiar with the deity of my preference: Avalokiteshwara, citing its Buddhist origins. When he leave I realize we only talked about positive things. His gracious smile and gentle demeanor remind of part of our conversation where he gave advice to his granddaughter: "Be happy and bring your joy to others". Satsang.
In 2009 India suffered a food shortage that caused a price hike and social unrest. In hindsight it was the precursor of the social upheaval that spread across the globe since then. Now more and more reports are about water disputes, between states and with neighboring countries. It takes three times the amount of water to grow animal based food than vegetarian. Will the world become vegetarian out if necessity? Will India be again a first marker of a new global crisis?
After a week of eating only 'Kanye' I "Kan't ye" eat this anymore. As I sit on the utility roof I look at the surrounding fruit trees: coconuts, bananas and other I don't recognize, I seriously contemplate an excursion into a neighboring yard.
In the evening I am told that there will be no more Ghee drinking as I've reached satiety. Next morning Sunil brings a cup of liquid and I ask him if it's a new medicine. "Yes", he says smiling (he's always smiling), "new medicine". I prepare myself, take a sip... and the sweet taste of chai rolls over my tongue. After a week of drinking only warm water it tastes like nectar. I savor it slowly in the early morning while downstairs a woman walks slowly back and forth chanting a mantra to herself. I look up some mantras on the ipod and recognize it:
Parmeshwaraye vidmahe
Pararattvaye dhi mahi
Tan no Brahma prachodayat
Signs in English are few as tourism is not a major source of income here. Many men wear Dhoti's, a large cloth tied around the waist and sometimes shortened by tying it up between the legs in a way I have yet to learn - but the colored stripe is always worn on the right.
Power outs are common in India and here is no different. One or two a day don't seem to bother anyone so, when a movie is interrupted mid-way, I don't bother either. If it's not too late to (or too early) wake the neighbors, the hospital generator is turned on.
The beds have springless metal bases, hot water is available via solar heater and by the evening runs out. Chai is served at 06:30, again with breakfast and once more at tea time. There is no food or ht drinks after dinner. Comfort is not an issue here as even my iron cast desk chair suggests but then again, the doctor did say it was not a Spa.
My two masseuses, Sunil and Gobin serve also as nurses, preparing and administering medicines, giving post-treatment instructions and even cater to my request for a daily newspaper
In Dr. Nair's absence, Dr. Indira makes the rounds taking BP, pulse and inquiring as to the patient's general feeling, sleep and 'motions'.
Of the duo that administers the patients, Gobin is more resevred while Sunil is open and inquisitive.I show him some pics of my trip so far and he asks if I have music on the ipod aswell. I look up an Indian music playlist and ask him: "Do you know Uma Mohan?" is eyes widened as he looked at the screen and asked: "Do you have her Shiva songs?". "Yes" I said and proceeded to pay one. It seems he is a devotee of Shiva and was unsuccessful finding any by her. I think it's called a lucky strike. I promised to send him all I had of Shiva as soon as I return home. At 23 he has already gained extensive experience in Ayurveda having started at an early age and working at different p[laces in India before landing a job at the 'Ayush". He is also a Kung Fu enthusiast. A cartwheel and hi-kick convinced him that this too we had in common.
After 8 days here, the last six having ingested increasing amounts of warm Ghee in the morning I am still comfortable. I am asked not to leave the hospital during the Ghee stage. During this time my diet is also restricted to 'Kanye', a watery red rice dish served with one veg side dish.
A day here starts at 6am with medications, then tea, breakfast at 8:30 (usually rice cakes or a spongy pancake-like bread with sauce) then doctor's rounds at ten. Today the amount of Ghee was raised to 200ml at one go.So far so good as I've been spared the side effects that affect some, like vomiting, headaches, upset stomach or restlessness.
After a few days of keeping to myself I manage to talk to the only person who acknowledges me with a smile, a mister Ramen who is of Brahmin origin.His curiosity seems insatiable as he inquires about Israel foreign relations, education and even on how much cup of coffee costs (about 20 times more than a cup of local chai). Ramen is 72, thin and very amicable. He also shows me hoe to wear a Dhoti and even demonstrates how Brahmins wear theirs.
The next day his brother in law visits and I am asked to join them. He is also a Brahmin, a retired physics teacher and a schlar of the vedas. We talk for a long time (him being as inquisitive as his relative) and we find common ground on meditation and its rewards. He is even familiar with the deity of my preference: Avalokiteshwara, citing its Buddhist origins. When he leave I realize we only talked about positive things. His gracious smile and gentle demeanor remind of part of our conversation where he gave advice to his granddaughter: "Be happy and bring your joy to others". Satsang.
In 2009 India suffered a food shortage that caused a price hike and social unrest. In hindsight it was the precursor of the social upheaval that spread across the globe since then. Now more and more reports are about water disputes, between states and with neighboring countries. It takes three times the amount of water to grow animal based food than vegetarian. Will the world become vegetarian out if necessity? Will India be again a first marker of a new global crisis?
After a week of eating only 'Kanye' I "Kan't ye" eat this anymore. As I sit on the utility roof I look at the surrounding fruit trees: coconuts, bananas and other I don't recognize, I seriously contemplate an excursion into a neighboring yard.
In the evening I am told that there will be no more Ghee drinking as I've reached satiety. Next morning Sunil brings a cup of liquid and I ask him if it's a new medicine. "Yes", he says smiling (he's always smiling), "new medicine". I prepare myself, take a sip... and the sweet taste of chai rolls over my tongue. After a week of drinking only warm water it tastes like nectar. I savor it slowly in the early morning while downstairs a woman walks slowly back and forth chanting a mantra to herself. I look up some mantras on the ipod and recognize it:
Parmeshwaraye vidmahe
Pararattvaye dhi mahi
Tan no Brahma prachodayat
No comments:
Post a Comment